Down memory lane (Journey to Cherrapunji & Dawki): -

Part- 2

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fter we had a brief stopover at Shillong Peak and Elephant falls, we proceeded towards Cherrapunji. The road was of two lane traffic. Vehicles running were sparse and journey was pleasurable in the hand of an efficient Khasi driver who goes by a single name guere du nom ‘bon’. The driver could speak broken Hindi and played a role of a guide too. The road was good enough to maintain a good speed at an average of 40 KMPH. Roughly 30 KM from Shillong, there was a diversion, Umtyngar. We took the right turn towards Cherrapunji. Left turn goes to Dawki and Bangladesh.

 

Meghalaya is basically an agriculture based economy with tourism as second fiddler. Unlike other tourist place, a visitor never feels the irritation of paying tolls, entry fees, and municipality taxes repeatedly here at Meghalaya. Never ever we were asked to pay any levy anywhere. Though, we were asked specifically at the places of visit entrance fees for vehicle and camera phone. The charges were miniscule and affordable. But, there were no charges for toilet or refreshment fees in those places. The charges were not collected by Meghalaya Govt. but the local bodies for their revenues.

Meghalaya has huge deposit of many minerals. Bad planning, greed and putting least concern on environment are creating more problems on ecology rather than fast growth.  Coal was extracted on ‘open cast mines’; consequence, miles of hills were simply vanished leaving a permanent scar on the surface, streams, branches and waterfalls from this pristine country side! Some of the coals were transported to Assam plains by Lorries creating more issues than solving. Interestingly, most of the extracted coal was exported to nearby Bangladesh, profit gone to the pockets of traders and Govt. with Meghalaya populace left with banana (No doubt this is a banana republic). Had there been underground mine shafts for coal extraction, then this type of gross destruction of natural habitat flora and fiord could have been avoided. There would have plentiful of upstream and downstream projects creating jobs that would have been unprecedented in the demography of Assam/Meghalaya. The N.E. states turning to arm struggle due to the lacunae of central planning and state’s indifferent attitude towards different tribes have taking their toll, here. No doubt this hilly country is deprived of wild animal now. Gone were those days when wild elephant and leopards were roaming in this part of the country. All for the sake of greedy mankind!

 

Meghalaya also has good limestone deposit. Incidentally, I was engaged in the construction of the one and only one Cement Mill in undivided Assam in the early seventies. With coal locally available for ‘incinerator’ this cement mill was constructed to produce good quality cement. But, look, how politics entered here. Cherrapunji was world’s most rainy day record holder and Cement Mill was constructed right here knowing very well that Cement is hygroscopic in nature. Thus causing a good quantity of rejection! All the required Sulphuric acid transported from far off places like South Bihar with railhead at Guwahati! In the early seventies, rail journey included train on broad gauge, then crossing River Ganga at Faracka then changing to Metre gauge rail at New Bongaigaon. Hell of a connectivity! The flawed project had its end, it was closed. Under the ruling of Supreme Court coal extraction was stopped totally, with no coal and scare sulphuric acid availability with more heads per tonne of cement produced this white elephant had its pre-determined end; as expected!

 Some mining activity was also observed on the way to Cherrapunji. Excavators, tippers, Bull dozers as well as portable Jaw crushers were seen working and Lorries are getting loaded. Upon enquiry, I was told that stone chips are for making building and 90% goes to Bangladesh as they do not have any hill for quarrying.  (Wrong! Chattogram hill track and East of Dinajpur, Hilli are full of hills to pull down! The traffics to Bangladesh were not visible in day time; probably they were smuggled out in bulk in dark!)

 

Also, there is good deposit of Uranium in Meghalaya. Surprisingly, local populace demanded to develop Uranium mines and allied projects for uplifting of their state. Again political needs are FAR more emphasised rather than general need and country’s requirement.

I was thinking all these while enjoying ever changing scenario gnawing on the panorama. Pictures below depict the great hill side beauty of this part of India. Beautifully but naturally curved valleys, its gorges, precipices and serpentine road all around give an ever engulfing pleasure that travellers cherish. On every turn the scenery is same. White Cumulus cloud formation is embracing romantically with the mountain. No matter why this country is named as Meghalaya!

As I have some other plan for the day so we have skirted some of the view point spots that driver was taking us. Gradually, some of the destruction of mankind inflicted on Mother Nature is visible. On vast hill ranges fully grown trees are simply vanished leaving some scrubs and bushes!  The destruction of forest started during British Raj and accelerated at the ensuring period run by Assam Government, corrupt bureaucracy, inept Govt. Officials, opportunistic middlemen and greedy traders. Perhaps this could be the reason why Cherrapunji needs water supply from outside now-a-days! Tragedy of a place better known has highest rainfall area! Miles after miles same scenario is visible practically disturbing a casual visitor like me. Only distraction from this wanton destruction of natural resources is the beauty of the landscape and its ever changing cloud formation. Low level cloud passing over the roads enveloping the car was a spectacular scene.

Around noon, a sharp turn brought us straight to a bridge. Couple of cars were parked there. The area sports a restaurant and a wash room. But, turning to left side we saw the spectacular scene of a gorge. We snapped some pictures and mentally noting the point, keeping in mind to have our lunch there while returning. 

Gradually, we approached the town and we turned right towards Nahakalikai waterfalls view point by passing Ramakrishna Ashram. The road from that junction was single lane though we did not face any problem as traffic was sparse.  We were told that viewing the falls is a matter of luck as most of the time cloud formation use to be thick enough to make the waterfalls invisible. We were upset that cloud was there but to our charm it got lifted and we had eye full of its magnificent view and feed for camera! Here we met a couple who helped us snapping our photo and we also reciprocate taking their group photo. The place is as usual sports small commercial activities, a restaurant followed by curio shop, unknown herbs were also sold here including cinnamon.  A funny group of young boys also came there. Those boys and girls were more interested to have their group photos instead of viewing the valley down there where cloud was slowly but steadily clearing out. We were standing there observing the cloud formation slowly getting cleared and slowly revealing the divine beauty of waterfalls. The flow was only one that created a pond down below. We were told by ‘Bon’ that in rainy season there use to be many waterfalls along with this one.

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