Down memory lane (Journey to Cherrapunji & Dawki): - Last part

After watching Nahakalikai waterfalls that disappeared again by passing clouds, we proceeded back. Meanwhile, I had a small talk with the tour operator ‘RONG’ at Shillong and renegotiated our tour further to Dawki. As we managed to save a lot of time by skirting some view points, I thought to drive another 90 kilometres to Dawki.  As such Cherrapunji and Dawki tour are two different tours and take at least two days that I clubbed up to a single day. Guys with spare time make this tour in a couple of days staying in between Cherrapunji and Dawki to see and enjoy the beauty of Meghalaya

as much as possible. (As if we have no time to spare; don’t we have enough time as retired couple?)

I was wondering that if I would have been in a time wrap, then this place is simply unknown to me. Except a few kilometres road to Nahakalikai was not same what it was earlier. A single potholed street is converted now to a smooth two lane highway. Except the Khasi boys and girls, all are different, though boys and girls sport western attire now. Traditional khasi attire is for ‘photo shooting’ only. Poverty level is not improved as expected. Most interestingly, Cherrapunji lost its place of world’s most wet place. Rain does not come here too often. Numerous waterfalls have dried out, standing like Dinosaur fossil. But, tourists flock in those lovely places to enjoy whatever left of this once beautiful place the ‘abode of clouds’, the Meghalaya!!

At lunch time we returned to the same Duwan Sing Syiem Bridge. This bridge is unofficially entry point of Sohar/Cherrapunji to view the picture post card type of panorama that Meghalaya Tourism advertises. So, all the tourist loaded cars are seen standing here for enjoying those breath taking views. A good lunch house is there. We had our lunch along with the driver ‘Bon’. And we proceeded towards Dawki. That meant going back towards to Shillong and turn right at Laitlyngkot for another 59 Kilometre drive towards Bangladesh Border. Slowly, in every villages Churches and their spires are visible. I started reading the names of churches but was not surprised to see which faith of Christianity did not make road inside this hilly area. There is a ‘Presbyterian’ Church standing with ‘Church of India’ (Protestants). Other churches like ‘Methodist’, ‘Sixth day Adventists’ are also standing tall. But, I have not seen any Mandir or Masjid on the way wherever we drove. Probably, not built on main roads!

Out of curiosity I searched Wikipedia and had my answer: - Religion in Meghalaya is closely related to ethnicity. Close to 90% of the Garo and nearly 80% of the Khasi are Christian, while more than 97% of the Hajong, 98.53% of the Koch are Hindu.

At the 2001 census, out of the 689,639 Garo living in Meghalaya, only 49,917 followed their original religion (Songsarek) down from 90,456 in 1991. 9,129 of the Garo were Hindu (up from 2,707 in 1991) and 999 were Buddhist (up from 109 in 1991). There were also 8,980 Muslims.

Unlike the Garo, a significant number of the Khasi still follow their original religion (Niam Shnong / Niamtre). Out of the 1,123,490 Khasi, 202,978 followed the indigenous religion (slightly up from 189,226 in 1991). 17,641 of the Khasi were Hindu (8,077 in 1991) and 2,977 were Muslim.

A number of minor tribes live in Meghalaya, including Hajong (31,381 – 97.23% Hindu), Koch (21,381 – 98.53% Hindu), Synteng (18,342 – 80% Christian), Rabha tribe (28,153 – 94.60% Hindu), Mikir (11,399 – 52% Christian and 30% Hindu), and Kuki (10,085 – 73% Christian and 26% Hindu). But to us all are khasis, though Jaintia & Garo hill people are distinctly different in all the senses.

The road to Dawki passes through the spectacular hilly road and is much sharper than previously encountered. After each turning we never knew where would be the next turning left or right! The Bolero was doing good progress with an average of 40 kilometres per hour speed miles ate that way. Villages after villages passed bye with spectacular sceneries that were distinctly different at every turn. Temperature was getting gradually warm slowly as we were going down the hill.

We are approaching some small town on the way; particularly the small town of Pongtung was beautiful. Set up at the end of a hillock, the place was full of activities of town folks. As there was a time constraint on us, so we did not stop and enjoy a cup of tea with local guys there. The road was getting much more treacherous with bends and bends. Someone told me that most treacherous of all the passes in European circuits is Targa Florio’ circuit of Palermo, Italia. But, I think this part of the highway can challenge it. In this part of Highway there is no guard rail, no illuminated flash points, and no white painted marker. Only you have white coloured mark at the centre that also got faded at many places.

 Further down the hill, we came to a small town, Wahkdait, teemed with full contingent of visitors and all modes of tourist cars. The road then was near horizontal though winding. At every turn ‘Bon’ was showing the Bangladesh borderline. Then we came to a old derelict cable Bridge manned by Semi Automatic lanced Border Security Force Jawans. The bridge was constructed over a spectacular clean water river named Dawki River and there is a confluence where another river ‘Goyain’ from Bangladesh meets that flows further to Sylhet District of Bangladesh.

From this part of India I could hear Bengali songs on loudspeaker and Azan from Mosque calling faithful Muslims for evening Namaz. Some activities are seen right on the river bed on sand with some temporary structures erected there. Also, saw some people are crossing knee deep water to reach there. The water at Dawki River is so clean that fishes are visible from the top. Even boats seem to be floating on air.

Road beyond this was in a bad shape full of potholes and single lane only. Slowly we reached Tamboli border check post of India Bangladesh border. Several tourists from Bangladesh was also seen loitering there. Thanks to BSF and Bangladesh Rifles we are allowed to go to ‘No Man’s land. We were introduced to Bangladesh tourists and I switched over to my Dhaka dialect and accent. Momentary meeting was good enough to remain in the mind for a pretty long time.

We did take some snaps with Bangladeshi tourist who too ventured No Man’s Land. And this will remain as a sweet memory.

The return journey to Shillong too was quite exciting. Sun was vanishing behind the mountain at faster speed than anticipated and at around 5 PM, the road became dark. With the vehicle continuously going uphill we were suddenly encircled with deep non penetrating white cumulous cloud. Visibility became roughly 10 feet. Nothing was seen where the vehicle was going. Only white mark painted at centre of the road was visible. But that did not stop the driver to slow down. As usual he was driving like hell without listening my repeated cautions. This situation was there for at least 20 to 25 Kilometers. There after cloud did not bother us.

We were coming to journey end. Next day we went back to Guwahati for our onward flight back to Kolkata. We very much liked the place and hope we will once again come back to see this place. We are already planning to visit Arunachal and visit ‘Lake of no return’. Lake of no return is in Burma and is 5 Kilometers from Indian Border. No Passport or visa is necessary as there is no one to ask for. So, this is the end of this story.

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Down memory lane (Journey to Cherrapunji & Dawki): -

Part- 2

A

fter we had a brief stopover at Shillong Peak and Elephant falls, we proceeded towards Cherrapunji. The road was of two lane traffic. Vehicles running were sparse and journey was pleasurable in the hand of an efficient Khasi driver who goes by a single name guere du nom ‘bon’. The driver could speak broken Hindi and played a role of a guide too. The road was good enough to maintain a good speed at an average of 40 KMPH. Roughly 30 KM from Shillong, there was a diversion, Umtyngar. We took the right turn towards Cherrapunji. Left turn goes to Dawki and Bangladesh.

 

Meghalaya is basically an agriculture based economy with tourism as second fiddler. Unlike other tourist place, a visitor never feels the irritation of paying tolls, entry fees, and municipality taxes repeatedly here at Meghalaya. Never ever we were asked to pay any levy anywhere. Though, we were asked specifically at the places of visit entrance fees for vehicle and camera phone. The charges were miniscule and affordable. But, there were no charges for toilet or refreshment fees in those places. The charges were not collected by Meghalaya Govt. but the local bodies for their revenues.

Meghalaya has huge deposit of many minerals. Bad planning, greed and putting least concern on environment are creating more problems on ecology rather than fast growth.  Coal was extracted on ‘open cast mines’; consequence, miles of hills were simply vanished leaving a permanent scar on the surface, streams, branches and waterfalls from this pristine country side! Some of the coals were transported to Assam plains by Lorries creating more issues than solving. Interestingly, most of the extracted coal was exported to nearby Bangladesh, profit gone to the pockets of traders and Govt. with Meghalaya populace left with banana (No doubt this is a banana republic). Had there been underground mine shafts for coal extraction, then this type of gross destruction of natural habitat flora and fiord could have been avoided. There would have plentiful of upstream and downstream projects creating jobs that would have been unprecedented in the demography of Assam/Meghalaya. The N.E. states turning to arm struggle due to the lacunae of central planning and state’s indifferent attitude towards different tribes have taking their toll, here. No doubt this hilly country is deprived of wild animal now. Gone were those days when wild elephant and leopards were roaming in this part of the country. All for the sake of greedy mankind!

 

Meghalaya also has good limestone deposit. Incidentally, I was engaged in the construction of the one and only one Cement Mill in undivided Assam in the early seventies. With coal locally available for ‘incinerator’ this cement mill was constructed to produce good quality cement. But, look, how politics entered here. Cherrapunji was world’s most rainy day record holder and Cement Mill was constructed right here knowing very well that Cement is hygroscopic in nature. Thus causing a good quantity of rejection! All the required Sulphuric acid transported from far off places like South Bihar with railhead at Guwahati! In the early seventies, rail journey included train on broad gauge, then crossing River Ganga at Faracka then changing to Metre gauge rail at New Bongaigaon. Hell of a connectivity! The flawed project had its end, it was closed. Under the ruling of Supreme Court coal extraction was stopped totally, with no coal and scare sulphuric acid availability with more heads per tonne of cement produced this white elephant had its pre-determined end; as expected!

 Some mining activity was also observed on the way to Cherrapunji. Excavators, tippers, Bull dozers as well as portable Jaw crushers were seen working and Lorries are getting loaded. Upon enquiry, I was told that stone chips are for making building and 90% goes to Bangladesh as they do not have any hill for quarrying.  (Wrong! Chattogram hill track and East of Dinajpur, Hilli are full of hills to pull down! The traffics to Bangladesh were not visible in day time; probably they were smuggled out in bulk in dark!)

 

Also, there is good deposit of Uranium in Meghalaya. Surprisingly, local populace demanded to develop Uranium mines and allied projects for uplifting of their state. Again political needs are FAR more emphasised rather than general need and country’s requirement.

I was thinking all these while enjoying ever changing scenario gnawing on the panorama. Pictures below depict the great hill side beauty of this part of India. Beautifully but naturally curved valleys, its gorges, precipices and serpentine road all around give an ever engulfing pleasure that travellers cherish. On every turn the scenery is same. White Cumulus cloud formation is embracing romantically with the mountain. No matter why this country is named as Meghalaya!

As I have some other plan for the day so we have skirted some of the view point spots that driver was taking us. Gradually, some of the destruction of mankind inflicted on Mother Nature is visible. On vast hill ranges fully grown trees are simply vanished leaving some scrubs and bushes!  The destruction of forest started during British Raj and accelerated at the ensuring period run by Assam Government, corrupt bureaucracy, inept Govt. Officials, opportunistic middlemen and greedy traders. Perhaps this could be the reason why Cherrapunji needs water supply from outside now-a-days! Tragedy of a place better known has highest rainfall area! Miles after miles same scenario is visible practically disturbing a casual visitor like me. Only distraction from this wanton destruction of natural resources is the beauty of the landscape and its ever changing cloud formation. Low level cloud passing over the roads enveloping the car was a spectacular scene.

Around noon, a sharp turn brought us straight to a bridge. Couple of cars were parked there. The area sports a restaurant and a wash room. But, turning to left side we saw the spectacular scene of a gorge. We snapped some pictures and mentally noting the point, keeping in mind to have our lunch there while returning. 

Gradually, we approached the town and we turned right towards Nahakalikai waterfalls view point by passing Ramakrishna Ashram. The road from that junction was single lane though we did not face any problem as traffic was sparse.  We were told that viewing the falls is a matter of luck as most of the time cloud formation use to be thick enough to make the waterfalls invisible. We were upset that cloud was there but to our charm it got lifted and we had eye full of its magnificent view and feed for camera! Here we met a couple who helped us snapping our photo and we also reciprocate taking their group photo. The place is as usual sports small commercial activities, a restaurant followed by curio shop, unknown herbs were also sold here including cinnamon.  A funny group of young boys also came there. Those boys and girls were more interested to have their group photos instead of viewing the valley down there where cloud was slowly but steadily clearing out. We were standing there observing the cloud formation slowly getting cleared and slowly revealing the divine beauty of waterfalls. The flow was only one that created a pond down below. We were told by ‘Bon’ that in rainy season there use to be many waterfalls along with this one.

To continue

Down memory lane – (A journey to North East)

I

 was driving a left hand drive Second World War army surplus and disposed Willy’s Jeep on 2^nd gear, continuously climbing uphill on the single lane winding and gruelling road towards Cherrapunji. Incessant rain was splashing on us, the canvas cover hardly given us any respite or shelter. It seemed night would never end, an insane idea hell bent on reaching a godforsaken place, at the construction site of a cement mill instead of staying in any warm Shillong Hotel! Whole of the road looks like over flown river bed and hillocks at road side looked like thousands of waterfalls water gushing with heart stopping sound!

Mother once said, ‘son, ‘wherever you go, visit nearby places of interest, otherwise, you may not get a second chance; again.’ So, along with a couple of friends and a drunken Driver John we visited Shillong, the summer capital of erstwhile undivided Assam, to see the hill station and a movie. Coming back to Cherrapunji was a damned stupid idea of mine; never knowing the journey could be such dangerous!

Driving under such conditions of rain, cold climate and black Nimbus cloud flowing through the valleys as if cloud had all the time in the world to pass through the road. With twin fog lights ‘on’ along with two large Marshalls, illumination was restricted just a couple of feet. Then it happened, I held the steering wheel with enough taut to keep the jeep steady as it had a flat front tire! We came out in that rain and changed the tire. There was no point in waking up that Drunken John and I started driving again. Then, to add salt to the injury, a perceptibly large boulder rolled on our jeep and hit the punctured Stepney at the right side shoving the jeep at the verge of the precipice; what a perilous journey it was!

But, it seemed that we were not the only creature in this part of the world venturing into this weirdest weather of all; a lone leopard jumped just before our jeep and vanished. That followed with lots of discussion among us if that wild animal is hungry, if yes, then who it will feed on. Someone suggested John’s name. But our laughter vanished as jeep again developed another puncture. We frantically called John and kicked him to wake up. That genuine SOB said why you guys do not use the spare wheel? When we said that wheel was already fitted in and there was no spare, what a great man that John was. That ‘Bheem Pahelwan’ practically ripped open the punctured tire and shoved elephant grass and made it strong enough to run! All within three to four minutes! What a sweet memory it was! But that John extracted cost of a bottle of wine from each of us as compensation. Had it been a normal weather I would have enjoyed the beauty of driving the mountain road with lots of pleasure.

That happened many years ago, but memory seems to be vivid with every moment of those days and particularly the driving that night to Cherrapunji. The beauty and natural panorama of North East is unchallengeable, be it Arunachal, Meghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram or Tripura.

Almost thirty eight years gone, we are now at the same road on 4^th December I and Tapati happen to visit North East again. The germ of an idea built up in the month of June when I came across Spicejet fare  from Kolkata to Guwahati and return cheaper than 2^nd AC! The tickets were booked, planning was made as fast as hurricane tour, visit N.E. in six days that included flying in and out, and back to Kolkata. I was eager to see the same road to Cherrapunji but seating in passenger seat rather than driving myself! At the gamut of the whole plan this time it is also meaningless as we had all the time of the world being a retired couple. But wise man said ‘you can change everything in your life but character & attitude never changes!

This time climate was ideal, not very cold, little warm in the day time, journey was splendid. It’s a long haul on the road north east to Shillong but the motorway is modern and we got a driver with Maruti D’Zire, the car usually driven by the tour operators here. It ate up the miles through Jorbat, which we reached in one hour. The drive gave us a chance to see the great limitless horizons of Meghalaya seen from the mountain top that impress the South Indian visitors who are accustomed to smaller dimensions.

The winding road from Guwahati to Shillong is of four lanes smooth enough for jolly ride.  At certain place on the way we stopped car and went out to see the valley down bellow that we just crossed. The scenery resembles Furka valley near Interlaken or Bernina Pass, may be St. Bernard Pass.  Interestingly the drivers are law abiding citizen following strictly traffic rules. There was no double parking or in traffic jam, there was no formation breaking & jumping on others on wrong side of the road creating further problem. The three hour journey to Shillong is memorable. Also, memorable the breath taking scenery of cloud covered with dashes of sunlight at Omium Lake. The Lake is a large one situated in pristine forest laced with wild bamboo growth. Though the lake is manmade still it does not show any trace of artificial creation. The enterprising Khasi girls are found to be  selling hot tea and snacks from their make shift kitchens; the boot of WagonR!

At Jorbat cross road we turned south and ran for fifty kilometers over middle field, with more endless horizons under a robin’s-egg blue vault of sky, until we reached the bluff called Tamulikuchi, where the middle field drops to the deep Valley. As we started down the twisting gradient we drew in our breath in amazement. Far below lay the valley, rich and lush, its open floor strewn with many beehive shaped huts, the cottages, surrounded by cattle shed, cattle pens, and vegetable gardens. Some of the cottages were perched on the side of the GS Road but most were scattered across the floor of the valley. Timber smoke eddied from their central smoke holes, and even from that height and distance we could make out the tribal boys tending small groups of humped cattle, and women bent over their garden patches. This, I thought, was North East, at last. It must have looked much the same when the Mon-Khmer, founder of the Khasi nation, later on merged with British India Empire. The road bucked and twisted down the bluff and into the Surma Valley. Across the valley was another range of hills, and in their center a deep cleft, through which the road ran. This is the entrance of Shillong!

The heartthrob of Shillong for every tourist, local guys, and tour operators is Police Bazaar. It is a business place for common guys, with a Mall or two thrown in! Police Bazaar road is off limit to any vehicle. The road has a flow of people whole day as if public are coming out of Cinema hall at the end of show; continuously! You will fall in love with the place instantly. Several wares were on display on footpath for you to pick up, anything or something. I picked up a ‘golf cap’.

I managed to get a good deal for tomorrow’s Cherrapunji tour. So, on 4^th December morning at 0830 we started our journey for sightseeing at Shillong and Cherrapunji though I did not tell anyone what else was there in my mind!

The tour operator’s name is RONG, he corrected me to say that is not colour as we say, I smiled at him and said ok, ok baba you are no Wrong (‘mistake’) either. That smiling Khasi young man could smell some odd in my way of talking and suggested to avail a ‘Bolero’ at the same price instead of Maruti 800 that I contracted. How suggestive he was, that I felt while returning in the night.

The first port of call was Shillong Peak. Marvellous place, but we did not waste much time, took some snaps and appreciated the scenery. Immediately, we left for Elephant falls at Shillong. The steps down the falls ground too precarious for us to climb down that too under the canopy of cloud! So, we had a cup of tea and snapped the small flea market there. The ever smiling girls were too smart to count money but one does not feel cheated. Off late, tourism is the money spinner for the Christian missionary trained and educated tribal. Thereafter, we did not bother to waste our time in visiting many places of not so interesting to save time. Straight way we left for Cherrapunji.